Modifications
From DucatiWiki
Modifications
The Ducati ST is a brilliant bike in standard form, but there are always those who want to modify their bike for a number of reasons, including performance, sound and comfort. Most STs have some sort of little “extra” or modification because we love our bikes, and want to lavish gifts on them!
The section below provides a non-exhaustive list of some of the common modifications.
Warning – some modifications can affect your new bike warranty
Engine
Exhausts
An informative thread on the sounds of various exhausts starts here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/st2_owners/message/71689
One of the first candidates for modification is the exhaust system on the ST. Why? Some people will tell you that it’s for performance, others will say for the sound. Either way, it’s an easy mod, and not too expensive. There are many brands of after market can – Staintune, Arrow, Remus, Ducati Performance, and so on.
One thing to check though – sometimes a change to the exhaust will require a matching chip to adjust the fuel mixture.
Another thing to check is that the ST2 and ST4 exhaust systems are slightly different in the way they mount on the bike.
A tip from Dan C:
“Just make certain the muffler brackets are far enough “out” to clear the swingarm. After the mufflers are mounted, sit on the bike and have someone look from behind as you lightly bounce the back of the bike.
As the suspension goes through its travel have them look to see if the two screws holding the mufflers to the brackets will clear the swingarm, on both sides.”
Staintunes are favoured with some because they come complete with a removable baffle in each can, which is held in with a bolt. This gives the owner a choice of a nice Ducati sound which is “loud”, or “LOUD”
From Justin Berth:
“You say you want a 'deep sonorous sound'. If that is your number one priority then you NEED Carbon Fibre slip-on pipes. For a road bike you don't buy CF for weight - will it save you an extra 3 seconds getting to the shops? Maybe, but the SOUND is what you get. CF […] removes the high frequency sounds (which sounds a little 'tinny' from a [metal] pipe) and gives you that wonderful, deep, thumping bassy twin sound that only a 90degree twin can make. Wonderful!”
Standard cans, professionally modified
Baines Racing in the UK perform mods to standard exhausts to make them look standard, but sound very different. They also offer a replacement chip that's more suitable with the straight-throughs. http://www.bainesracing.com/
DIY Exhaust Mods
A number of owners have decided to modify their standard cans to provide a bit more noise, without the expense (and benefits!) of a new pair of slip ons. Some suggestions are provided below - do these mods at your own risk!
From “wwjdwithca” (sorry - I don’t have your name!)
“Bills of Material and required work centers:
Dremel, 1" diamter cutoff wheels for dremel, qty: 1 container 36 pieces
Barrel grinding wheel for dremel (if desired)
Power Drill
5/32 or 3/16" diameter drill bit
Hammer
Loctite, Red Permament
Hardware:
#10-24 x 1/2" Stainless Screw (head of your choice)Qty:6
Wingnut, #10-24 stainless steel, Qty:6
#10 stainless steel lockwasher, Qty: 6
Step 1. Drill out the existing rivets, and remove the exhaust end cap piece. You will need to rap this piece off with a hammer and some type of of slot head screw driver or in my case I used a punch.
Step 2. Using dremel and 1" cut-off disks cut a nice round circle about 3/16" off of the outside edge of the 3 existing holes. This will require about 7 to 10 disks to complete the circle. Be certain that the circular cut diameter is large enough so it won't be seen when the end cap is replaced! Note: Dremel has 2" reinforced cut off disks that are much hardier Maximum of four disks to cut the whole, but they are much more expensive. Probably cut off 10 minutes per side though.
Step 4. Using 1" cut off disks cut the current exhaust exit. Be sure to cut behind the where the first circular cut was made. Helpful hint: Set the dremel up so that when you slide the dremel with the blade into the pipe you can slide the dremel until it hits the end of the pipe. This will work as a guide. Since you cannot see where your cuts are taking place, and it will require 5-6 disks to complete the cuts. If you do not have a way to mark the distance, you will not know if your cutting in the same position each time you change the disk cutter.
Step 5. Use barrel disk grinding attachment to clean up any rough edges. This is optional, but I figured if someone looked in I wanted the area to appear clean.
Step 6. Tap end caps back onto to exhaust cans with hammer. Be sure to line holes up. I chose wing-nuts because I thought it would be easy to ensure that it didn't spin when I was holding it in place while tightening. It also served well in that I could easily tell what position it was in since I was working strictly by feel. The hardware you use is really personal preference. But make sure it's stainless steel for corrosion resistance, and you don't want anything large than a #10. The end cap piece is made from a very hard material (some type of stainless I believe), so special drill bits are required if you want to enlarge those holes.
Step 7. Place Loctite on threads before tightening. This will ensure that the hardware does not ever come loose. RED is good up to 300 degrees F., so don't worry about that. I used locknuts as well as an increased measure of safety. This ensures that the nut will not loosen before the Loctite sets, so you can't ride it right away!!
Step 8. All done! Doesn't look out of place either. Stainless screws match the finish well too.“
Model Interchangability
ST4 and ST4s slip-ons are interchangeable, all model years. Some group members have reported success in fitting early-model ST2 pipes to ST4’s. It is not clear whether these were factory (restricted) pipes or aftermarket (unrestricted, free flow) pipes.
Product/Brand Reviews & User Experiences
Fast by Ferraci
From: David Bennings
“I purchased fbf carbon slip-ons (manufactured by sil [Sil Motors]) from ebay ($390 delivered, exc. Condition) for my ST2 and the sound has been deep and welcome. I would have liked to have gotten them cheaper, but they were perfect. I suppose price has a lot to do with your question, how much you are willing to spend. The stats and the terms are not cheap. Good luck.”
Sil Motor
From: Robert Mohns
“I had Sil Motor carbon fiber pipes on my ST4s (and will again, when they're fixed). very mellow, deep, pleasing sound. None of the harshness of Termis or Ducati Performance pipes. (Also, the clear coat carbon fiber sils look really nice!)”
Staintune
From: Darren George
“Go for Stainless Staintunes,I have them,and no matter how covered in burnt on gunk they always polish up like new,and look fantastic,I think a better option for the road than CF..you’re not trying to get a second off your lap time are you? I attack the pipes with a buff on my drill coated with Autosol and they come up gleaming. Sound great too. Don’t forget to re-chip.”
From: Justin Berth
“I've had the Stainless Staintunes - and won't say a bad word against them....
Extremely well finished / repairable (scratches simply polish out) / great fit / great sound / not too loud (in fact street legal and stamped so in Australia) and even after several long sessions on a dyno (I'm talking 4 DAYS...) which makes them turn a bronze colour, you simply polish them up with some linishing cream and they come up like new.”
From: Perry Rosenboom
“I love the Staintunes – I ran with opened up standard cans for a while, but these things are so much better. The sound is awesome, and the oval cans I have look sensational. A big feature of the Staintunes are the steel plugs which can be locked into each muffler to reduce the noise level”
Ducati Performance
Content needed!
D&D
From: Robert Mohns
“LOUD. as in BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM...
I had a pair of D&D's on my 750, and this described them well. Sil Motor pipes have a much, much nicer sound. For sheer obnoxious volume, though, it's hard to beat D&D's!”
Termi
Content needed!
Arrow
The OEM alloy-cased cans on my 1999 ST4 are marked Arrow, and very pleasant they sound. Possibly these early pre-catalyst systems are more melodius than later STs, but I wouldn't want mine any louder.
Chips / ECU
Until the release of the ST4s, replacement of the chip was a simple and highly beneficial modification. The ST4s was released with a completely different ECU system, and replacement requires changing the entire ECU. For quite some time, no after market unit was available for the ST4s.
Chips (ST2, ST4)
If you are looking for an after market chip, the ST2 uses an FIM 161 which was preceded by an FIM 142.
FIM chips can be installed without changing exhaust for smoother operation and some small power increase (2HP at 7K RPM), but are more commonly installed as a matched item for after market exhausts.
From Kyle: “By far the mostly widely accepted "best" chip is the FIM 161. A bit more (or a lot more) than the other chips, but usually the best cure for the lean running and backfiring common on new bikes. Was the only thing that finally got my 98 ST2 to run right.”
The following very interesting extract regarding tuning comes from the FIM web site:
“11 - How does the CO trimmer work and how do I set it? Every model of Weber injected bike has a CO trimming function which allows the idle mixture to be set. In fact the trimmer affects fuel delivery over the entire RPM range, but with a lesser effect at higher RPM. The amount of fuel added or subtracted from the base fuel duration varies from model to model, as it's programmed differently for different models and ECUs. However it is necessary to adjust the CO Trim to obtain optimum performance.
16M computers (748/916 Biposto/ST2)
On these ECUs the trimmer is located inside the ECU and the rubber bung must be removed for access.NOTE - Always re-seal the rubber bung with waterproof tape (ie Gaffer tape or Duct tape) after you have finished adjusting CO.
Next to the chip socket there's a very small (1/4" square) trimmer potentiometer. This has the same function as the external trimmer screw on P7 and P8 ECUs. The Trimmer on the 16M ECU has a range of about 3/4 turn, or 270 degrees. When you hit the end stop, STOP !!! There is no roll-over on these trimmers and they will break if you try to force them.
When you screw the adjuster clockwise the mixture is leaned. To set the default position, simply set the trimmer in it's mid-rotation point. You can also use a voltmeter to set the 2.5 volt point.
How do I set the trimmer correctly?
Firstly let's look at the factors involved in the mixture system:
The fuel entering the engine is controlled by the injectors, principally by how long they are open for each engine cycle. Typically at idle they are open from about 1mS to about 2mS. The CO trimmer affects this duration as shown in the table above. This change is the same for both cylinders, and cannot affect the CO cylinder balance.
The computer measures the butterfly position using the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). This sensor is precisely aligned on the butterfly shaft and afftects not only fuel delivery but ignition advance as well. Many owners are tempted to move this sensor on the shaft, as you can get more fuel delivery from the ECU in this way.
But there are several goods reasons not to do this:
The Weber TPS sensors are NOT LINEAR. If you change the position from the factory setting, not only do you change the fuel delivery but you change the ignition advance. This means that the bike will have too much advance at partial throttle, leading to detonation (pinging) problems which were not there before. The factory used a specific setting for it's mapping, and we use the same setting for our mapping. So if you want to achieve optimum results with our chips, then you should set the TPS to the factory settings. Then your engine will operate as close as possible to the engine we used for testing.
The air entering the engine is controlled by two things, the throttle butterfly and the air-bleed channel. These two factors are inter-dependant, ie you can get the same amount of air with a shut throttle and open airbleed as with an open throttle and shut air- bleed. The difference is that the ECU does not know how the air- bleeds are set, whereas it does know the throttle position. So you can change the air entering the engine either by opening the throttles (which the ECU knows about and makes an adjustment for) or by opening the airbleed. The salient point here is that the butterfly and the airbleed are designed for two different functions.
The butterflies are designed to deliver the same amount of air to each cylinder under load conditions. This is achieved by synchronising the butterflies using a vacuum guage or 2-channel CO meter.
Because the butterflies are not perfect, the airflow will vary between the two, especially at low throttle settings. It is impossible to maintain exact synchronisation through the throttle range, so the butterflies are synched where they are most critical, ie in the range one-third to one-half throttle. This can be easily achieved on a brake dyno.
The designed purpose of the air-bleeds is to achieve cylinder balance at low, or idle, throttle settings, where the butterflies are effectively closed on the stop screw. The bleeds are adjusted to give either matching vacuum or CO for both cylinders.
Clearly the idle can be set in a number of ways, since the mixture and balance are interdependant, along with the butterfly synchronisation.
So unless you are familiar with idle setting then we suggest you leave this to a dealer with the right equipment. To properly set the CO you need a CO meter !! If you don't have one it is very hard to pin down the relationship between the CO trim, the air bleeds, and the butterfly position.
So to re-iterate the variables:
Throttle Position Sensor adjustment.
'Butterfly synchronisation.
CO Trimmer setting.
Air Bleeds.
We use the following sequence to correctly align all parts of the induction system. This sequence is essentially the same as the factory recommended sequence:
Set the Throttle Position Sensor on the throttle shaft. To correctly do this you must:
Completely back off the idle stop screws on both throttle bodies.
Use the Mathesis tester or a Digital MilliVoltMeter to read the throttle sensor voltage. To do this you should tap the butterfly with your finger to ensure that the butterfly is completely closed against the body. Then you turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on the throttle sensor:
P7 or P8 ECU: Pins 11 and 17.
1.6M ECU: Pins 16 and 30.
1.5M ECU: Pins 22 and 11
If the sensor does not read 150mV Plus or Minus 2mV then you need to adjust it:
Slacken the lock screws on the throttle sensor using a screwdriver or 7mm socket.
Carefully move the sensor whilst reading the voltage.
Retighten the lock screws a little at a time, each time reading the voltage and adjusting the sensor.
Note that you should probably overshoot the reading by about 5mV on slack screws, because when you tighten them the reading will change by about 5mV.
Repeat until perfect. This takes a lot of practice. The factory manuals specify +/- 5mV but we feel that this is not accurate enough. many owners will attest to the difference in performance when the sensor is set perfectly. Re-set the throttle stop screw (or screws) so that the engine idles at around 1200 rpm. This is not a final setting for the stop screws, merely a step in the procedure. Typically this will produce a voltage of around 300mV on the TPS. This value is completely arbitrary and is not important. Many people misunderstand the factory manual in this regard and will try resetting the TPS until they get 1200 rpm idle and exactly 300mV on the sensor. THIS IS WRONG !!!. The actual voltage on the sensor at idle is irrelevant to correct sensor positioning on the throttle shaft. Trust Me !!
Synchronise the Butterflies:
Close the airbleed screws completely by adjusting CLOCKWISE. If you don't do this then the throttle vacuum will still reflect any air passing through the bleed channels and the butterflies will not be perfectly synched.
Attach vacuum guages to the manifold port on each cylinder and run the engine.
Adjust the throttle butterfly link shaft until vacuum is identical.
Rev the engine and confirm that vacuum tracks on both cylinders throughout the throttle and RPM range.
Re-adjust the link shaft until satisfactory results are obtained.
Do Not adjust the throttle link shaft after this point.!!
Set the IDLE Balance by adjusting the airbleed screws counterclockwise and confirming that the vacuum is identical for both cylinders at idle. You can rev the engine and observe vacuum tracking through the rev range, and then observe idle vacuum restabilising. NOTE Since the airbleeds are designed to iron out any irregularities in the throttle's function, by their nature there is no default setting, unlike the idle screws on a carburettor. If anything the default setting is fully closed. Airbleeds can also be balanced using a 2 channel CO meter. In this case, just adjust the bleeds until both cylinders have the same CO. Adjust the IDLE Mixture. Finally you get to set the CO Trimmer ! This will affect both cylinders by the same amount, so you need to set the airbleeds first. A typical CO figure for idle is 4% to 6%, but automotive regulations usually specify a CO of under 1% to meet emmissions standards. A V-twin will idle very poorly if the CO is set below 1%, so if you are really bothered try a setting of about 3%. Note that you may need to finesse the airbleeds at this stage. Adjust the IDLE RPM. Set the idle rpm at the manufacturer's figure (usually 1100 - 1200 rpm) by adjusting the throttle butterfly stop screw (or screws).
We recommend 1200 rpm for Ducatis and Guzzis, possibly 1500 rpm for Ducati 996SPS models.
Finally, note that the last three steps are usually repeated until an acceptable balance of Idle Balance, Idle Mixture, and Idle RPM are obtained. This is normal. Do Not adjust the throttle synchronisation link shaft once it is set in the early stages. If you do this now, you will need to go through the entire sequence again. So hopefully you will have an engine which now idles, accelerates, and delivers full power faultlessly. Again, if you are not confident about all of these steps, then we suggest you use a dealer who has the skills and equipment. It is not worth adjusting the CO trimmer unless the entire sequence is followed without skipping any steps.”
Chips (ST4s, ST3)
A Ducati Performance replacement is available for the ST4s. Another option for ST4S owners (not ST3) is buying a FIM performance ECU, which replaces the factory ECU and ignores the immobiliser completely, as well as being fully remappable.
How do I replace my chip
This sound advice from Wolfie:
“There is a notch in the computer chip. Take note of where that notch is located on the stock chip before you pull it out. The new chip should have that same notch, so orient it just like your stock chip. With the right handlebar switch in the 'run' position, turn the ignition on. You should hear the fuel pump begin to cycle, and your lights will come on. If you don't get this, turn the key off and check the install of the chip.”
Airbox and filters
Many owners modify their airbox by drilling largish holes in the lid (to get better airflow and a bit more noise). Details of this can be found in the archives on the list (I’ve not had time to research it yet). Other options open to you are specially designed replacements.
There are also a number of after market, washable filter elements that can be used. There are two from K&N, one of which requires some trimming of the lid to fit. The other (part #du-9098) should fit without any mods.
Justin provides more detail:
“The centre divider of the airbox lid usually has to be removed when fitting an aftermarket air filter, such as a K&N, which is a lot deeper (and hence more filtering area) than a standard filter. It's not removed to produce more noise, although more noise might be the by-product.
I managed to fit my K&N by only removing the very ends of the divider in the lid, but I have to be careful when replacing the lid and filter to ensure a correct fit.
By the way, fitting an aftermarket filter does not give an increase in performance (I've spent enough time on various Dyno's to know this), but allows you access to a filter which is cleanable, and hence reusable. LARGE holes in the rear face of the airbox lid Will give you an increase in performance though. The filter itself is not the restriction - rather the lid is.”
Combining Opened Airbox, Pipes and Trim Adjustment
ktkt_200 asked:
“I've had my airbox drilled at the back for better flow. Fixed on a Ducati Performance Exhaust. Had the trimmer on my 99 ST4 richen by 45 degrees. Do I need an aftermarket EPROM or would the trimmer adjustment suffice???”
From Fariborz:
“To really know the answer you need to put an exhaust analyzer in the mufflers and measure the CO content. Anywhere between 3% and 6% should work but closer to 6% is preferred.
But using a less scientific method (aka seat of the pants analysis) from a cruising speed of lets say around 55 mph in 3rd gear going down on a small incline, chop the throttle completely. If you hear the exhaust popping sounds you are still running lean and might need a new chip."
Clutch
Quiet Clutch
Clutches are one item which is a reasonable area for an upgrade. Many owners report wear in a relatively short space of time with the standard dry clutch arrangement. Almost everyone who replaces their clutch or clutch components will opt for an improved after market clutch, even if only because the after market clutches are much quieter
Vee Two Clutch Replacement Kit:
Stephen Gendle with around 90,000km on his ST2 (“The Duchess”), replaced his clutch assembly with VeeTwo aluminium drum and aluminium basket, and Sureflex plates. According to Stephen the first (standard) clutch lasted 55,000km at which time he replaced the drum, basket and plates with stock items. The stock replacement lasted 25,000kms before a worn / bent pushrod and bearings forced another replacement, this time to the Vee Two.
According to Stephen, the replacement parts were far superior in manufacturing, and cost around the same as the stock parts.
Justin Berth on Vee Two clutch kits:
“Have a look at the VeeTwo clutch kit. They've recently upgraded the components - the clutch basket now uses 7075-T6 Aluminium - much harder than the 6061 Aluminium that other manufacturers use, plus it's Hard Anodised on top of that. 7075-T6 is over 50% harder than 6061 grade Aluminum.”
Leo Smith:
"“VeeTwo says... "Note : Vee Two does not recommend fitment of alloy baskets to the ST2 and ST4 models as the baskets wear rapidly when fitted to these models."
I cannot imagine why, but that's right from their website, too bad, it's a gorgeous piece of work.”
Chris Kirk:
“That's very interesting. That notice was not there two years ago when I picked up their then newest iteration of an alloy basket.
I've over 25k miles on the same Vee Two basket, Barnett aluminum clutch pack, and Vee Two aluminum hub on the ST2S. While worn, nothing is in imminent need of replacement ..... I don't believe ..... but then I haven't ridden it since November.
I'll pop the clutch apart tonight, give it a check, & post the results.
[…]
Well I took a look & was quite surprised. I am happy to report that the wear to the basket is essentially nil. The alum. clutch pack tangs are worn about 2.4 mm which is not too bad for the # of miles. I'll install a replacement pack before I ride this year to preserve the basket though.”
Barnett Clutch Replacement Kit:
From Mark:
“My clutch kit from Charlie has about 9,000 miles on it now and it sounds and feels the same as the day it was installed. I haven't inspected the basket itself to see if it's showing any signs of wear, though.
At my 12,000 mile service, the service guys noted that the spring plate of the Barnet Aluminum clutch plates was warped a little and has a couple of burn spots. Not so bad that I needed an immediate change. As a precaution, I bought another Barnet kit which is sitting in my garage, in case I need to swap out the plates, but I've put another 3,000 miles on the installed plates since the inspection. They seem to be working just fine.”
From LT:
“I am a fan of Barnett [clutch & basket combos], and was an initial proponent of their new hybrid baskets. I even sold a few of them. Then I began noticing on both customer bikes and my own a few things. First, Barnett encourages running alloy plates with their baskets. This is problematic because the ally plates are quickly beat up by the steel inserts. The gap as we know is the culprit for a lot of the noise and friction plate tang and basket wear and the Barnett basket has a bit of gap when their plates are installed. I haven't found the Barnett basket plate combo to have long life... the ally plates get beat by the steel inserts on the basket within 10K. I then tried running steel plates in the basket, and actually found longer life... but the steel plates destroyed the steel inserts... no surprise there. In the end I stopped carrying them, and told Barnett that the basket sounds great but in reality doesn't work well due to tab clearance problems. I suggested they custom mate their plates to fit the hybrid basket to increase longevity, but their really not interested in doing that. Charlie [Smith, Pro Cutting, contact details below] is the only one crazy enough to do that commercially. However, I've got 25K on an STM basket with Barnett plates that I hand filed for an exact fit. Still no tang wear and still quiet. If you've got a Barnett basket and have had problems let them know.”
Replacement Slave Cylinders
A recent survey on the ST Owners List asked the following question:
If you have replaced YOUR bikes clutch slave cylinder with an aftermarket one, what brand have you replaced it with? And were you happy with the replacement? 33 replies:
| Replaced with Yoyodyne? | 24.24% |
| Happy with the Yoyodyne? | 21.21% |
| Standard clutch slave cylinder was better than Yoyodyne? | 0% |
| Replaced with Evoluzione? | 6.06% |
| Happy with the Evoluzione? | 9.09% |
| Standard clutch slave cylinder was better than Evoluzione? | 0% |
| Replaced with Pro Italian? | 6.06% |
| Happy with the Pro Italian? | 6.06% |
| Standard clutch slave cylinder was better than Pro Italian? | 0% |
| Replaced with other brand? | 27.27% |
A comparison of two of Yoyodyne and Evoluzione slave cylinders can be found at:
http://ducatigarage.netfirms.com/cylinders.html
http://www.yoyodyneti.com
http://www.evoluzione.net
Information on VeeTwo clutch slave cylinders can be found at:
http://www.veetwo.com/
Tyres (Tires)
Tyres are always a hotly debated topic. Most riders have their strong preference with tyres, and don’t understand why anyone would use anything else. It seems that tyre preference is dictated by a number of factors, including riding style, cost, longevity as well as plain old fashioned bias.
One of the common opinions of the ST owners is that the Michelin Macadams which are standard fitment on some ST’s are holding the handling of your bike back. These tyres have been known in quite a few cases to “cup” - replacing them with a more “sports” oriented tyre will provide noticeable difference.
The ST2 rear wheel is 5.5" and capable of carrying a 180/55 ZR 17rear tyre- the same as the ST4 stock tyre. (vs the 170/60 ZR17 stock)
A survey on the ST Owners group provided the following results:
Preference for Sports/ Touring tyres where the emphasis is on spirited road riding: 34 replies
| Metzeler MEZ 4 | 5.88% |
| Michelin Macadams | 5.88% |
| Michelin Pilot Sports | 23.53% |
| Dunlop 207 | 41.18% |
| Dunlop 205 | 5.88% |
| Pirelli Dragon GT | 1.76% |
| Avon Azarro | 5.88% |
| Bridgestone Battleaxes | 2.94% |
Preference for Sports/ Touring tyres where the emphasis is on longer distance road riding: 32 replies
| Metzeler MEZ 4 | 40.62% |
| Michelin Macadams | 21.88% |
| Michelin Pilot Sports | 0% |
| Dunlop 207 | 0% |
| Dunlop 205 | 12.5% |
| Pirelli Dragon GT | 12.5% |
| Avon Azarro | 6.25% |
| Bridgestone Battleaxes | 6.25% |
Tire wear is obviously an important aspect to choice of rubber. Tires which need to be replaced frequently will obviously add considerably to the cost of ownership. In my own case, I’m still running the original Dunlop D205 on the rear, and have around 14,000km of mostly single weekend riding. Extra weight, and riding styles can significantly alter the distance you can expect from your tires.
One lister found that the Metzeler Sportec M1 lasted less than 2000 miles, whereas Pilots lasted more than 3000 miles.
Speed Ratings
Tyre Pressures
Tyre pressures are, in many cases, a personal thing. There is no “correct” pressure - only what suite you and your style of riding. Different tyres work best at different temperatures - for example Pilots will work best when ridden hard, and warmed up correctly (hence the “Sports” designation).
Tom Melesky provides his settings:
“I am currently running Pilot's and live in Texas, so have little problem in getting them warm! However, I do adjust the air pressure for the type of riding I'll be doing. The less air pressure, the more tire flex, and the more heat that goes into the tire. The more air pressure, the less flex, and the less heat that goes into the tire. The manufacturers recommendations are more for preventing tire failure from riding an overloaded bike on an under inflated tire that for managing tire pressure as a performance variable. A rule of thumb on race bikes is to look for a 10% increase in tire pressure from cold after several 'hot' laps on the track.
So, on this weekend's trip to the Hill Country I'll probably run 33/35 on the way down, 1-up with a modest load in the bags. I'll reduce it to 31/33 on Saturday where we'll hit the good roads without bags, and go back to 33/35 for the run back home on Sunday. Two up I'd probably run something more like 34/36.”
Justin provides his:
“I run 36/40 most of the time, solo, no luggage, and notice it straight away if the pressures drop, due to slower turn in, and increased effort when turning and holding a line. It doesn't get too cold here in Sydney, with winter temps not usually dropping below 16celcius during the day, and summer temps around 25-30celcius, with a hot day reaching 35.”
Ron Ginter provides his:
“I run 32front/36back riding solo, with or without bags. On the original Macadam 90 tires, I got 15,000 km, at which point the front was badly cupped (a common problem) and the back was just out of tread in the centre.
This spring I put on a D207/D205 combo at the same pressures, and after 12,000 km (it was a good summer) there's about 1mm of tread in the centre of the back tire, and the front is still in pretty good shape.
I check the pressures religiously, and adjust whenever the temps change. I've always meant to check the warm running pressures to see if the 10% rule works out, but have never got around to it.”
So, there you have it. Three different settings for three different owners. Make up your own mind, but the following might help:
http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/fitmentguide.asp
Expected Tyre Life
Varies, however Doug reports over 12,000km from the standard rear Metzeler MZ4.
Suspension
Occasionally, some owners will get their suspension rebuilt to suite their individual needs or riding style. Kyle provides the following info: “I think I'm one of the very few who had their suspension rebuilt. Race Tech did mine in early summer 1999, both the shock and the forks. I had Lindemann Engineering do my 750SS shock and forks. Well worth the money at any level you'd like to do (springs, re-valving, etc.). I have an Ohlins shock on my 01 ST4 and while it is certainly an improvement I think the improvement per dollar is better with the rebuilding.
Of course the new Sachs shocks are not of the same quality as the old Showa units, and may not even be rebuildable. If you have non-adjustable forks as on the new ST2, a re-valve and new springs will help tremendously since you can't adjust anything on them.”
Electrical
Fault finding guide for motorcycle electrical systems from electrex http://www.electrexusa.com/faultfin.htm
Lighting
Replacement bulbs
One of the main complaints about the ST motorcycles is the quality or brightness of the standard headlight setup. Quite a few owners have remedied the problem to a certain extend by upgrading the headlight globes. There are two options – the first is to use halogen globes of a higher rating than the standard globes (see the specifications section for the details on the standard globes).
Remember that using higher wattage globes means that more power is being drawn from your electrical system (Watts being a measure of power). If your choice of globes is too high, and your wiring isn’t up to the task, you might find melting electrical systems or worse. Fit these types of bulbs at your own risk!
Another option are high performance “Xenon” bulbs, which claim to offer 30% brighter light, for the same power. A number of owners are fitting these type of bulbs, and they do make a noticeable difference.
An even better option are very high performance HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs, which offer 300% brighter light, for less power consumption. They even light up road signs in the daylight. See: HID Headlamp Upgrade.
Another thing to keep in mind is that even though the bulbs can be replaced with brighter options, this will not change the shape of the reflectors, so your spread, and pattern will probably not change.
Ducati Designs Headlight
If you are serious about improving the lighting of your ST, then you need to consider the twin headlight replacement kit. Go to www.ducatidesigns.com
Battery
Battery problems seem to go with owning one of these bikes, especially the earlier models. Many owners choose to buy a battery tender to keep the battery trickle charged while the bike isn’t in use.
Part numbers for 2000 and earlier model battery: Yuasa YB16AL-A2
Part number for the 2001 (lighter sealed battery): Yuasa YT12B-BS
The newer battery is the same battery as used in the Yamaha R1 (Thanks to Ian Ellis for this)
Note: The retainer clip is different for the two types of batteries.
Battery Theory
This section was supplied by Ray C. It’s brilliant - thanks!
“It just goes to show how different "science" and "reality" can be. I have also lost batteries when left on trickle charge over winter before, although not in recent memory. There can be a whole variety of reasons for these failures and obviously, without knowing specifics of each case, it is hard to know what may have been the reasons for failure. Admittedly, if you know of a number of people that have left their batteries on charge continuously all winter and they failed very quickly in all cases, it would certainly give rise to a belief that the continuous charging was at fault.
I'm going to try to provide you with some more help here and you can decide what works best for you :o)
First of all this may be quite long, so those of you that think you are okay on battery theory and practice may want to lurk elsewhere!
I guess I should point out that (hopefully) I have some expertise in this area because I designed battery charging systems and power supplies for nine years ( And...no, I didn't work for DelTran! ;o) ) Although I don't necessarily have all the answers, I'm more than happy to put my experience to some use.
Maybe I should explain the battery types, because there are so many popular misconceptions and I'm even guilty of promoting a few myself!
We're talkin' lead-acid cells only.....technically divided into five types (five!!! I hear you say), they are all variants along the same basic idea, they are ...... Flooded, Sealed, VRLA, AGM and Gel.
A flooded battery is your traditional wet lead-acid cell with lead plates and sulphuric acid, topped up with distilled water when the fluid levels drop;
A sealed battery is generally a flooded battery except its sealed from the user and contains a sufficient amount of acid to sustain a chemical reaction for a defined lifetime (usually 3 to 5 years);
A VRLA is a Valve Regulated Lead Acid Battery, it is sealed but it has a valve which permits the safe release of gases created during charging;
An AGM cell (stands for Absorbed Glass Matte) is actually another sealed VRLA and is often thought of as a Gel cell, technically its not and is really a wet cell but its sulphuric acid is suspended in the fibrous mat and the characteristics are similar to a Gel cell so in my book it can be called a sealed VRLA or Gel cell and it doesn't really matter!;
A Gel cell has silica (mostly) added to the sulphuric acid and this forms a gel like electrolyte, the cell is also sealed and generally valve regulated.
Corn-fused now? You will be! ;o)
For the next bit lets simplify those groupings into three if we can.... Flooded, Sealed Wet (this is what most people refer to as "Maintenance Free"), Sealed Gel (this is what most people mistakenly refer to as "Dry").
Flooded types are the least sensitive to charging levels provided you top them up with distilled water periodically. Sealed wet cells are more sensitive to charge and generally have a maximum life of five years if treated well. Sealed gel cells are very sensitive to charge levels (particularly over-voltage) and experience shows they mostly start to degrade badly after three years although they can last for five years in some environments, Gel cells are best suited to "standby" applications.
Its worth pointing out that the biggest advantage of the Gel cell is that it is smaller and lighter than other types. Of course it is also "maintenance free".
Now here we come to the important stuff:
The type of battery starting to be fitted in most modern motorcycles is the AGM battery. It is small, light and maintenance free, it is valve regulated and the sulphuric acid is suspended in a media, it is non-spillable. Most people are referring to this as a Gel cell and that’s okay, technically its not but we don't need to split hairs.
An AGM battery likes to see an absorption voltage in the range of 14.4 to 15.0 volts and the float voltage should be between 13.2 to 13.8 volts. A true Gel cell likes an absorbtion voltage range of 14.0 to 14.2 volts and a float voltage of 13.2 to 13.4 volts.
As you can see the tolerances on the Gel cell are lower than the AGM but a float voltage of 13.2 to 13.4 is good for either type.
If you are using a "battery tender" or other similar charger with bulk, absorbtion and float modes you should be able to switch the charger on and just leave it. If there is something wrong with the battery or the charger then you could have a problem, but assuming everything is okay you can leave the charger on float permanently over winter and just let the battery maintain a full charge. Bear in mind that once the cell reaches full charge it will be putting out the same voltage as the constant voltage float charger, therefore no current will flow and so the battery cannot be overcharged.
So why do people have problems?? Well, in my case the batteries I "lost" over winter were all flooded types and in every case it was because I didn't maintain the fluid levels adequately whilst leaving them on charge...in my defence, when you have fourteen motorcycles and three cars in your garage it can be difficult to keep up on the maintenance :o>
I've never had a problem with an AGM or Gel cell hooked up permanently to a constant voltage charger operating at 13.2 volts all winter long.
So what do the ST bikes have? They appear to have valve regulated AGM cells and they can be float charged continuously at 13.4 volts (my personal ideal setting for this battery). Again, a battery tender or similar charger will do the job perfectly.
Now what about the concern that you have lost many batteries by leaving them hooked up to the battery tender? First of all I would have the charger checked to make sure it is working properly. Next, if your other batteries were of the flooded type, you may have experienced a problem where the lead sulphates that occur during natural battery discharge did not recombine properly with the water during recharge, either the fluid levels became too low or the water that was added was impure. Excessive gassing can start to occur if the float voltage remains too high (above 13.8 V)and so large fluid loss can occur quite quickly if the charger is not adjusted properly.
Again, with an AGM or true Gel cell there is no reason why leaving a charger on float all winter at 13.2 to 13.4 volts would cause an early failure of the battery.
Having said all of this, there is no reason why you cannot continue to charge your batteries by periodically plugging in the charger and providing them with a boost voltage. Just be careful not to let them discharge too much, because any cycling of any lead-acid battery promotes advanced ageing of the cells.
Incidentally, I would think that, in the case of the ST series battery, it would probably have an average lifetime of three years, mainly because it is a fairly small battery and it has to cope with significant loads under starting conditions. If you get four years out of it I will be impressed!
Sorry if all of this has left you more corn-fused....honestly, I was only trying to help <:o}”
Protecting electrical connections
More useful information from our resident Electrical guru (Ray C):
”Dielectric Grease is non-conductive. However, it is used by industry to protect everything from exposed high voltage connections to enclosed computer and eprom terminal connections.
Most people would question the use of a non-conductive grease on low voltage low current connections. The truth is that it can be used on such connections quite readily because of the way it works.
Dielectric grease coats metal connections so that no oxygen can get to the connection. By so doing it prevents the oxidation and thus corrosion of the metal contacts. As an additional benefit, dielectric grease keeps out moisture and thus prevents both corrosion and tracking of electrical current.
Question: What about the contact surfaces being effectively insulated??
Answer: When a connector is pushed, clamped or bolted together it will displace the grease entirely from the points where the metal surfaces contact each other. The grease is specifically designed to do this by having very low shear resistant properties (in other words this "grease" would be totally useless for your bearings) and so any sort of pressure will force it apart, even at the molecular level!
It works, that is why it is used by the computer, communications and space industry. We used to put it between (yes, between) bolted connectors on heavy low-voltage power supplies (4 Volts) and then bolt them up tight so that the grease would squeeze out of the sides, this is the best way to make sure that no oxygen or moisture can enter
But when you use it, don't stuff heaps of it into a connector...it is not necessary, just a thin film covering the parts is enough to protect them more or less permanently. Apart from the fact that filling a connector full of the grease is a waste, it can also get onto your frame and painted parts with the result that its tough to clean off without some residue somewhere...and if you ever have to have a re-spray, lets just say that dielectric grease and automotive paints don't mix ;o)
As far as other spray-on compounds are concerned, there are a bunch of good ones out there. Dan mentioned S100 and that is a very good product but unfortunately not available as widely as it should be.
WD-40 is fine for cleaning your connections and you can leave a film of it on the metal contacts. The problem with this and many other products is precisely that they are conductive and this can actually cause lots of problems.
If you were to douse a whole connector in WD-40 for instance, if there happens to be a slightly loose connection and you get some electrical "arcing" the WD-40 will actually promote burning and cause the contacts to become blackened and eventually non-conductive or it will simply allow enough heat to build up through the burning that the contacts actually melt (I've seen that one several times). The other thing is that any conductive spray is also coating the surrounding parts with a conductive layer which promotes electrical current leakage away from the connector, possibly causing a short or arcing between several contacts.
The best thing to do is to use WD-40 or similar to displace any moisture, then clean your contacts with a good quality contact cleaner which evaporates away from the contact surfaces leaving no residue, then put a thin coating of dieelectric grease on the contacts and then mate the contacts together.
There, you just knew nothing in life could be simple didn't you? ;o) “
Replacement Starter Cables
Jastek Replacement cables
For a professionally made and tested starter replacement kit, visit http://www.powerletproducts.com/products/ducati_starter_rewire.php
This kit has been installed by many ST owners, and all report improved starting and reliability.
DIY
From Nick Woods:
“Someone back there (sorry, can't find the post, but thanks) reminded us that there are a few things to do to improve wiring on STs....
I've just made my own uprated starter cables from 7.5mm OD, 126-strand cable, versus 6.3mm OD, 80-strand OEM, which gives a conductor cross-sectional area of 13mmsquare, against only 8mm OEM. Dead easy with all the bits available from Vehicle Wiring Products over here in the UK (0115 9305454), though of course Jastek Powerlet Products do a kit for those who don't enjoy doing it themselves.
On the earthy side, LiSTers have noted that it is bl**dy difficult to undo that pathetic little socket-head screw that attaches the negative lead to the back of the cases, so I've left that as it is, and run in a second thicker lead from the battery to the vacant (on mine...) thread tapped into the side of the horizontal cyl head, as I think our helpful LiSTer suggested.
The result is that the starter really spins the engine.”
Driving Lamps
Some after market driving lamps are available, and some owners buy the pieces and design their own. For a look at some after market lamps, check out: www.motolight.com
Some others may be available, and I’d be happy to list them here.
Accessory outlets
Later model ST’s have a BMW style outlet plug on the left hand side of the bike. These are protected by a 3A fuse. John Swiatek provides a dual adapter unit to give you an additional outlet for your CB, heated vest, or radar detector (where legal).
New owners will question the 3A fuse, as many accessories will draw more current that 3A, especially heated vests, grips, etc. Some experienced owners recommend replacing the 3A with a 10A or 15A (depending on your needs). The usual disclaimers apply!
Often the question comes up about the type and quality of the socket and corresponding plug on the ST. I’ll leave it to our resident Socket Expert (John Swiatek) to explain (prices are in USD): “There are many manufacturers/distributors of this plug and socket. Amp Inc, BMW, Bosch, Hella, HB, John Deere to name a few.
There are also many grades of quality. Some of the sockets are all metal, some are plastic. Some sockets like the BMW (made by Amp) have watertight connections... but they cost $28 a piece. Some of the plugs have no strain relief's, some have both strain relief's and rubber boots.
The John Deere AL25073 is plastic, I believe it is $8 from the dealer. John Deere has a nicer part (MG82002966) but it is $20.68 from my dealer.
Unfortunately the plastic sockets, like the John Deere, tend to hold the plug like a wet noodle. Some tend to heat up with high current; (the contact resistance at the connection point is another form of IsquaredR loss). My wife claims she can feel the difference in heat in her electric vest.
I continue to evaluate the different sockets and plugs for my kits. The nicest sockets (for the money) that I can find I had to import from Germany. They are all metal. They "click" when the plug is inserted. I can sell these for $14.95 (slightly more than the John Deere part but way nicer).
As a side note, I am considering importing a "military looking" socket with screw on cover that is retained by a chain. It would be really cool on a dual sport, or maybe an antique bike. It will not be cheap however, probably $25-30.
I have three different versions of plugs available also. Plug prices range from $6.95 to $11.95 for the super-duper deluxe model.
To those of you who purchased STx kits and received a price sheet with different prices than what are shown here, I apologize. I am still evaluating/modifying this business plan. When I have a stable product list and price sheet available I will post it.
If you are interested contact me off list at jastek-js@home.com”
More information can be found at http://www.jastek7.com
Brakes
Some interesting reading from Warren:
“A little while back I came across some info about Brembo brakes on the Yoyodyne web site.
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/BremboFAQ.htm
In the technical notes it does state that these systems are not compatible with silicone based fluid. The seals are rubber and react with the fluid causing them to swell causing severe piston retraction problems. There is also a bleeding procedure which is good to read.“
Pads
Brake pads are (again!) person preference. Check the following link for some technical information from one supplier:
http://ferodobraketech.com/brakepads.html
Dan provided some feedback on some experimentation he carried out:
“I tried a set of Ferodo SinterGrip ST pads and found them to offer a bit more all-out power, and about the same initial level of "bite". Stock ST4 pads are also sintered metal so I didn't expect a big difference. They're advertised as being "kind to rotors" but on my rotors I could see more lines forming. They were beating up the rotors. Not surprising since sintered pads are known for that. They're equivalent to HH pads.
Then I tried the Ferodo CP911 Star high carbon formula. The rotors had to be wet-sanded (per Ferado instructions) and that took half an hour. Bead blasting is better but wet-sanding with 320 grit removed any residue left behind by the sintered pads.
The CP911 Star pads offer more initial bite. I can feel more power as soon as I touch the brakes. I like that. As far as ultimate power and fade resistance: I have no idea. I do know that the rotors are looking better and better every day. Fewer lines and a brighter finish. The only negative so far is some dust on the wheel after every ride. These carbon pads won't last near as long as sintered metal pads.
Anyone experiment with pads?”
Discs
Discs are prone to warping, as are discs on many Ducatis. That’s why thickness was increased in model year '00
Levers
Mark Whitfield found that he could fit adjustable levers from a 916 onto his ST. He needed to adjust the steering lock slightly so that the slightly larger 916 levers didn’t hit the fairing. According to Mark, a 5 minute job. Apparently 996 levers will not fit.
Aftermarket levers can be found at: http://www.constructorsrg.com
Luggage and storage
The Ducati panniers which fit onto the bike are generally considered to be good quality, reliable items. They are large enough to take a helmet (some of them!). One of the questions which comes up quite often is around their ability to withstand the weather.
Evidence from all the owners on the list is that these units are waterproof, and solid. Owners have ridden through hours of rain, and used high pressure hoses to clean the panniers, and they appear to remain water tight. Take care when opening though – puddles of water which collect near the lock can enter as soon as you open them!
As far as the mounting brackets go…. There are two different attitudes to those. Some people don’t mind the look of them, or else will always ride with the pannier attached. These people leave the brackets on permanently. Others will use the panniers infrequently, and will fit the brackets each time they need to use the panniers. Experienced owners can fit the bracket and panniers in about 20 minutes.
Of course, when the panniers are not on the bike, you can raise the pipes slightly (standard ones, anyway), to improve ground clearance and looks – even if the brackets are left on.
Pannier warning:
Some pannier bolts were too long and struck the swingarm on full compression of swingarm. The solution was to shave end of mounting bolt flush with welded nut on end of bracket. Occasional brackets were bent and hit swingarm. Many dealers appear to have not read the mounting instructions and do not use the thick black spacers and long bolt when mounting bags.
Tankbags
Tankbags are a personal thing – you love ‘em or hate ‘em. If you love ‘em, then you swear by the magnetic ones, or the strap on ones….
These comments come from one of the liSTers:
“I have a Ducati Performance tankbag, the one made for the STx. It’s a really great bag that I have had no problems with, and it’s a lot better than the BMW stuff I used to use. The one caveat is that the safety strap that holds the bag if the magnets should ever let go is a pain in the butt to attach. All in all, that’s a small detail though.”
A suggestion from Ian Ellis for mounting DP bag safety strap “What I did was to buy another plastic buckle and 12 inches of black webbing at the local fabric store.
Lift the tank and wrap the webbing over the frame tube just right of the steering tube. Thread female half of buckle on and tie an overhand knot in the webbing so it is tight on the frame rail. Trim off the loose ends and melt the frayed ends (I use a soldering iron with a rope melting blade). Close tank and it is permanently there ready to plug the bag leash into. It is unobtrusive and easy. I don’t remember how short I made the leash on the bag but I left the female end attached for a second carrying strap.
Another option for tankbags which gets a glowing review from a liSTer is RKA luggage.
Motobags
For additional storage in an otherwise wasted space under the seat (behind those plast panels that run under the seat), consider Motobags nifty bags.
More information at: http://www.motobags.com
Top Boxes
Top boxes (top cases) are popular additions, and Ducati top boxes in a number of sizes specifically for an ST. They are actually made by Italian company “Nonfango” – which may be useful to know, as Sergio explains:
“The rubber mounts on the top case on my ST2 were missing. After doing some searching I got replacements directly from Nonfango in Italy. Email nonfango@nonfango.com. Contact person is Eva Baka. She was very helpful and sent me the replacements in few weeks. Total cost, including s&h about $13.”
Grips and Handlebars
Grips are very much a personal preference, and you may need to try a few different types before you find grips that suit your style and hands.
Tacki
Tacki-grips are popular, and are cheap enough for owners to try them without worrying about wasting their hard earned cash (they sell for around $6 US). They do requires a bit of work to fit, and one Owner’s instructions are provided below:
“There’s basically 2 things that have to be done.
The ends need to be cut off to allow for the bar ends. This is best done at the last band using a brand new ‘arc’ exacto blade. Used blades will only screw it up and it’s important you use an arc’ed blade for the best results.
The inside end of the throttle grip needs to be bevelled to fit over the throttle mechanism. The first time I did it, I carved it using the exacto. The second time I did it on another set, I used a bullet head stone in my Dremmel tool and it worked perfectly. Just be sure to use a brown stone at about 2500 rpm (medium speed) and go slowly, taking off a little bit of material at a time. In about 10 minutes you’ll achieve a perfect fit.
I have a Throttlemeister and it required a slightly different fit (hence the second set). In actuality, I cut my first set too short but the Ducati stock bar ends covered it up nicely. The TM’s don’t have quite the same overlap. To clean up the look, I used a round rubber washer at each of the bars (bought at home depot). The grips will be hard at first, but will soften up in time and with use. I love ‘em! “ – Russ, Boise
Heated Grips
The following information on heated grips comes from “Newcenturion” (sorry – I don’t know your real name – send me an email!): “I put Kimpex heated grip "liners" on my '00 ST2, under Tacki-grips. They are thin adhesive wraps with elements like wide rear window defrosters made for snowbiles and cost under $20. I used a plug-in accesssory fuse addition from Trak Auto, about $4, as power supply so they turn off when the bike is shut off. They have a 3-position toggle switch I mounted on the left side dash panel, with the in-line ceramic resistor. They work fine for me, and sounds like the set described earlier are identical(Aerostitch?), don't know what the cost difference is. Expect to pay over $100 for Gerbings gloves and around $60 for the thermostat.”
Other Grips
Some owners have tried other brands of grips and found them to be a big improvement over the standard grips. Some of these include: Pro Grip Gel 714, anyone else want to nominate others?
Johar sportbike grips are foam, good shape, medium size and help minimise buzz and numbness. $5.95 (in the US) Ideal for those with past broken hands
Handlebar Risers
Many owners find that the position of the standard bars doesn’t suit them, particularly on a long trip. Some options are available, and it’s a case of try them and see. Some owners opt for simple risers, which consists of a plate fitted under the standard pars with longer bolts, just to raise the bars up (and slightly back) - usually about ¾ inch.
A more serious option is to replace the bars themselves with adjustable versions, which are also raised. One thing to be aware of is that raising the bars may also involve some longer cables or hydraulic lines. You also need to check that your clutch and brake master cylinders will clear the fairing if you raise the bars. Also check the length of lines and cables if the bars are at full lock in either direction.
Brancs of riser include Dr. Desmo,
Heli
Heli bars are used by many of the contributors to the ST list. Some advice on mounting is provided by Ian Ellis:
“The Heli paint is rather thin and the bars are slightly larger diameter than the stock. Put your switch blocks on carefully so as not to need to touch up paint.
Grease up the bar under the throttle sleeve. It seems to trap water in there and mine rusted up some. I have not figured out how to initially align the bars to the triple clamp. It would be nice if Heli put registration marks on the mounting towers so you could start aligned. I eyeball the first fit. Make little marks with a grease pencil or regular pen to see where the bars need to move after you have taken a test ride. You will have problem with the choke racing, particularly if you like your bars angled towards the back.
I took the fairing off and loosened the choke cable at the throttle body. I turn the bars full left and put slack into the cable so it is not activating the choke. That means on start up you will need to rotate the lever further to choke, but I have never not had enough enrichment to start (bike has run down to 42 deg F). Then I take a small zip tie and pull the cable housing up towards the speedo. I then zip tie the cable to the rectangular wire retainer that it runs through so that the slack is concentrated where it is needed. Make sure you check your bar clearance to the tank. Adjust the stops to make clearance. Easier with fairing off but possible with it on if you have a shorty socket wrench. Take your watch off first (it will scratch your tank when you cram your hands down there). Drill little holes in the non-visible part of the rubber caps and tie a thin nylon string to it. Trap the other end of that under the mounting blocks. That way when the cap inevitably falls off you can find it. Option is to use rubber cement but I didn't like the mess and how it was harder to pry the caps off against the soft paint.”
Munroe
Information on the Munroe adjustable bars is available from http://www.munroemotors.com
Cruise Controls
A number of list members have fitted various cruise controls, one of the most popular being a Throttlemeister. Most of these devices consist of a new bar end, which can be screwed in against the throttle, keeping it open for cruising. You should be aware (if you are not already!), that such a device is different from a car, in that applying the brake or clutch doesn’t release it automatically.
The Throttlemeister is expensive, well made, visually unobtrusive and very hard to engage smoothly with one hand. Throttlemeister adapter is AD2.
Another successfully used cruise control on an ST is a “Vista Cruiser”. More info soon (hopefully!).
Sprockets
A common (and easy!) modification is to change the relative gearing of the engine to the rear wheel by altering one of the sprockets.
Commonly, the rear sprocket is changed to another with one extra tooth – this has the affect of improving your off the line and low down performance, but at the trade off of a slightly lower top speed, and slightly higher engine speed while cruising. As an example “Doug” changed his sprocket set on his ’98 ST2 (15:42) to an ST4 set, (15:43) and at 160kph his engine speed went from 6,000 rpm to 6,200 rpm.
Moving from a 15:42 to a 14 t. front is a 7% reduction which helps with slow speed driving and increasing torque. It is the equivalent of a 15:45, but that would require a new chain. No one on the list has reported a failure from this mod.
Much discussion on the list was had regarding the merits of an odd number (in total) of sprocket teeth. This following simple explanation of why an odd number of teeth is a good thing comes from Warren:
“Random tooth hunting: A chain by it's construction has an even amount of rollers and with an even toothed sprocket the same teeth contact the same rollers. Put an odd toothed sprocket on the wear is shared between all the teeth and rollers. Just mathamatics. Ducati bevels have different teeth numbers in the cam drives for the same reason. “
Swingarms
Occasionally owners will want to replace a swingarm (usually if it’s damaged in some way). The only after market one I’m aware of is made of polished aluminium, is German, and can be found at: http://www.ducati-kaemna.de/uk/katalog/Swingarms.html
Chains
Chains require a great deal of care and attention, and if not kept regularly lubricated are subject to premature wear – with potentially disastrous results.
Chain Maintenance Tools
Opinions vary on the wisdom / necessity / frequency / method of chain cleaning. Some owners like to clean their chain regularly; others don’t bother (especially if using an automatic oiler).
One product that I know does work is the KettenMax (an Austrian product – Ketten = Chain in German).
Check out www.kettenmax.com or www.bike-gizmos.com for more information
Automatic Chain Oilers
There seems to be regular interest in automatic chain oilers. Commercial options include the ScottOiler, the HawkeOiler and the ProOiler. Also of interest is Paul Fox’s custom-made “FoxOiler”. http://www.foxharp.boston.ma.us/bikes/foxoiler
There is also useful information on the HawkeOiler, the Loobman, the Scottoiler and the German CLS200 at the VStrom Wiki: http://www.vstrom.info/wiki/index.php?What%20are%20all%20the%20various%20kinds%20of%20automatic%20chainoilers%3F
HawkeOiler
From: William Hadder
“I have a Hawke oiler on my ST4s and would recommend it. You just have to remember to push the button to oil the chain. Only thing I did was to get a dual feeder to the chain from Pro-oiler. Haven't had a chance to use it yet (Winter) but it looks like it should be fine. i found the single feeder kept one side of the chain lubed better than the other. Didn't present any problems however....”
From: Peter Young “I have had a Hawke on my ST2 for a couple years. My OEM chain and sprockets lasted 17K miles. I like the fact that I can add oil any time I think it might be a good idea. OTOH, I need to remember to punch the button.”
How-to and photos by Peter Young: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/st2_owners/files/Hawke%20Oiler/
ProOiler
From: Robert Cellucci
“There are many advantages to the pro-oiler. I don-t consider it overkill at all. I think of it as a much improved and more effective Scottoiler. I know a lot of people like the Hawke oiler, but it just makes no sense to me. I want an automatic oiler that I can pretty much forget about.
The cost, if you get the dual side oiler is about the same. The Scottoiler will oil whenever the motor is running. The pro-oiler will only oil when the bike is moving. It is impossible to set the Scottoiler for all conditions. you can only set it for the condition you use most and hope it stays adjusted. The PO can be reset to the precise correct point and that will work for all speeds and distances.
For example: If the correct amount of lube required is 1 drop per mile and you set the Scott oiler for that amount at 50 mile per hour. When you are doing 25 miles per hour in traffic the Scott oiler will dispense 2 drops per mile, or twice as much as you need at that speed. When you are doing 100 miles per hour on the road, the Scott oiler will dispense 1 drop every two miles or half as much as you need.
In contrast, the Pro-Oiler will dispense 1 drop per mile at any and all speeds. If you encounter rain or a dust storm you can reset the PO by pressing a button on the dash and then return to the exact same setting by pressing the down button. It displays a number so you will always know what setting you are on.
The above is because the Scottoiler is a time based system and the Pro-oiler is a rate based system controlled by the distance traveled.I was very impressed with the quality of the Pro-oiler components. You definitely get what you pay for and then some.”
ScottOiler
From: Justin Berth
“I've had the ScottOiler on my last 3 Ducati's now, and have also installed them on various other bikes including an ST4s, a Triumph and a Japanese bike.
From experience, once you set the automatic oiling rate to the correct rate for the bike, it is absolutely set and forget - no buttons to press or anything else to remember, other than filling up the standard reservoir every 1000km's or so.
The ScottOiler operates on engine vacuum, so it only 'oils' when you actually need it - when the engine is running, and the ST's have an easily adapted manifold screw in the vertical cylinder inlet which is the perfect takeoff for the manifold vacuum to operate it.
Several years back when we were 'between' distributors in Australia I imported 7 of the kits from the manufacturer for several mates who also wanted them. The consensus was that the ScottOiler not only doubled the life of your chain, and hence paying for itself within the life of only 1 chain, but that it also made the bike run smoother as the chain was more regularly lubricated. Much better in wet weather too when most lubes would get washed off the chain - the ScottOiler keeps oiling whilst you're riding.
You can use any old rubbish oil you find - as long as it's not used oil. I use supermarket 'no-name' 20W-50 engine oil in it and it works perfectly. Using a different viscosity oil would simply mean adjusting the flow rate on the reservoir via the control dial.”
From: William Wahl ”I use ATF in my Scottoiler. There are multiple ways to mount the reservoir depending on your needs. It takes the chain design of our bikes up one step to less worry. Try it and you will like it.”
From: Gary Eagan: For what it's worth, we never could make the Scottoiler work on the Multistrada. Worked beautifully on all of my ST series bikes, but never on the 'Strada. I never received an understandable explanation for that phenomenon. Possibly something weird about the air-cooled DS motor/vacuum?
Brilliant installation instructions on fitting a Scott Oiler for group members can be found at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/st2_owners/files/ScottOiler%20Installation/
Loobman
Included by the editor for completeness – no group members have posted any experiences with the
Loobman. UK£17, fully manual and elegantly simple. A squeeze bottle, delivery tube and a metal arm to put the oil on the rear sprocket & chain – reach down and squeeze : http://chainoiler.co.uk/
Loobman installed on a Ducati 748: http://chainoiler.co.uk/p_ducati1.html
Seats
Again, sets are a very personal thing. Many people say that your butt gets used to the standard seat, and can do many hundreds of miles in a day. Others swear by replacement seats. Two of the major replacement seats are discussed below.
Corbin
Corbin seats have been around for a while, and have a replacement seat specifically for the ST. The seats have an optional backrest, and different piping or Italian flag logo. These seats fit like stock, because they transfer the mounting hardware from your existing seat. Many owners (and their rears!) swear by them….. although you will notice that they weigh more than your standard seat.
Consider the length of the rider seat when ordering. Corbin's standard seat moves the rear of the saddle back approx. 1 ½". One suggestion is to send then measurement from nose of saddle to where you want the back of the seat to be, along with your order.
Sargent
Sargent Saddles have a variety of seats for all types of bikes, and some owners have said that they prefer the Sargent over the Corbin. Options include leather or vinyl.
http://www.cyclesaddles.com/home/Saddles/images/WS-ST2-ST4.htm
Russell
Russell all day saddles have also been mentioned on the list, and are favoured by iron butt competitors like Gary Egan
http://www.day-long.com/
Rich's Custom Seats
Rich’s are a Seattle based shop that does custom fitting
http://www.richscustomseats.com/photodisplay.asp?id=euro14
Other makes of seat suitable for an ST include “Russell”.
Windshields (Screens) and Lips
Some riders find it worthwhile fitting an after market screen to either raise or lower the flow of air around the neck and helmet. Ducati Performance have both a lower and higher screen.
An alternate for a higher or lower screen is “Zero Gravity”. Some listers have reported fitting these screens with good results.
http://www.zerogravity-racing.com/whatsnewduc.htm
Laminar Lip
From Fariborz:
“Laminar Lip offer two different models, Standard and Touring:
Standard:
Touring :
I have ridden Bob's ST4S with the standard model. I was wondering if anyone has used the Touring model and what you think about it. I am also interested in hearing other people's experience with the Standard model, Pro(s) and con(s)?”
From: Jack Ward
“I do, I like it. I’m 6’2” and although the air is a little dirty at helmet level, I prefer it on long rides. It is useful to tuck behind when passing truck with their associated turbulence. I also experienced a slight (2 mpg) increase in gas mileage whe I installed it a couple of years ago. I was surprised at first and thought it was a mistake, but I removed and checked it to make sure. It increased mileage.”
From: Bob Pave
“Yes, it generally smoothes out the airflow and it seems more comfortable and protective to me.”
From: Rob Mohns
I use one as well. I'm 5'8", 30" inseam, to give you an idea of my proportions. For me, the airflow is not only higher but incredibly smoothed out at my helmet, where the stock windscreen buffeted my helmet around constantly. I am a very happy Laminar Lip customer. (Comparing my experience to jack's, it may be that the turbulence is above my helmet!) The "touring" model was not available when i ordered mine. I may order it and try it sometime. […] I discovered after putting on the lip that the temperature had to get quite a bit lower before I needed neck protection to stay warm. Unexpected bonus."
From: Phil Stob
“Yes, I too have one. It certainly raises the envelope a bit, quiets things down, and gets the flow up higher on your helmet. It makes it warmer and more comfortable in cool and wet weather. I take it off in hot weather to get the air flow. I always thought it would be really cool if it were adjustable, but its worth the money as it is.”
From: Gary Eagan
“I've ridden both the standard and touring lip quite extensively, however on the '04 body style. I helped Andy Corcoran develop the touring lip, and I find it to be extremely good in all conditions, including very long days (well more than 1,000 miles).
I've yet to try the Lip on the old style fairing and screen, but have all the confidence in the world in Andy's skills. If he builds it, it will work.
The touring lip is a couple of inches higher and has a somewhat different curve, alowing to the give a wider, smoother peripheral flow.
The standard lip is much better than any aftermarket screen I've tried, especially the taller Ducati Performance screen, which I find to be quite turbulent. But I was looking for a bit wider envelope than the standard lip gave. I have a Touring Lip on the ST 3 I have in the garage and have used it several times for 1,000 mile or more daily jaunts. it doesn't isolate one from the wind, just smoothes it out very, very well.
Compared to the Standard Lip, I'd go with the touring model every time. But again, my experience is solely on the new body style. Call Andy at Laminar Lip, offend him for me (just a traditional Hobatz practice) and pick his brain. He is an extremely knowledgeable aero engineer. In fact, he is the one who initially taught Paige Ortiz the toe holds of aero flow. They are as good, and I believe better, than anyone in the industry, and neither is full of moto babble bullshit. If they know, they'll tell you. If they don't they won’t. Pretty simple.”
From: Barry Hobbs
“I'm about 5'10 with a 30" inseam(to roughly judge torso height), and the standard height bugflect... er, laminar lip on my '02 ST4s pushed the air up from hitting me just below the neck, to right about the brow vents on my Arai. If I duck just a little, the air is definitely going right over me. Seems sufficiently stable at all quasi-legal US speeds that won't get you arrested, but it becomes admittedly looser if you disconnect it from the screen using the heavy-duty plastic velcro-like mounting stickies. [Ed: 3M ScotchLok] That is to say, the mounting stickies are not terribly robust once you start popping them on and off, but the glue holding them to the windscreen is definitely stout. I've taken mine off just once, and it got a little more wobbly, but I'm not fearful that it's going to come off at any speed below 120. They admit that the sticky things will get weaker with use, and supplied mine with an extra set.
Biggest drawback: it looks like a bugflector, because, well, it basically IS a bugflector. For pictures, I generally take it off. It's like having a hood bra on your Maserati. Yeah, it's functional, but it's not pretty. When I'm riding though, that part never bothers me, unless there's a towel girl in the next lane, in which case, other things bother me more.
I think I like it better than installing a bigger windshield, since I still have the option of taking it off, which for riding around town in the summer, is kind of nice. Admittedly, I could do that with a windscreen, but it's harder.”
Aeroflow
From: Mike Mullen
”Looks like Aeroflow might be preparing to come out with a custom screen for Ducati ST's like the one they made for Gary:"
http://aeroflowscreens.com/ducati_project.htm
http://aeroflowscreens.com/
From: Gary Eagan
“Paige Ortiz, owner of AeroFlow, and I have been raking the mental ruins over this screen now for about three months. Unlike the screens Paige made for my past Rally STs and Multistrada, he actually had time to develop this screen properly. I arranged for him to get a new body style ST to use for a few months, and I believe the design he came up with will be exquisite.
Unlike my past screens, this one will bolt directly over the existing plastic, using the same mounting holes. One can put it on and take it off in about 10 minutes. He also just finished making a few lower body wind deflection panels to put on the bike to add to the quiet and efficiency. One problem a screen designer has is that when he (or she) increases the wind pocket from in front and above, it creates a larger low pressure pocket around the tank and the rider's lap. That's why many screens pegging themselves as touring screens and just taller versions of the stockers are actually noisier and more turbulent. Wind then wants to get sucked up into the cockpit from the sides and below the rider.
Tomorrow […] I will be putting the first 6-800 miles on Paige's new screens. I have two at Salt Lake Motorsports, one about an inch taller than the other and of minutely different design at the top corners. I'll ride a hundred miles of so, came back to the shop, toss on the smaller screen, ride 300 miles or so, then do the same with the taller version. At the end of the day, I should know which works best and under what conditions.
Hopefully on Saturday we will have the side pieces, which I will add to the mix and then evaluate the whole package for Paige. The screen looks OEM, and is extremely well finished and designed. Paige has probably spent $7-8,000 minimum just making the initial molds. He'll do the final versions after I report back.
The big advantage to this setup is that one can add it for long touring, and in no time at all take it off for sportier spins. Coupled with the fully adjustable bar risers CycleCat has built to my specs, this system will give the ST very long legs for those inclined to go out and seriously "Play in Traffic.""
Headlight
Cleaning and upgrading
Eric Schneider provides some information on his cleaning and upgrading work:
“Well, here is how it went with the headlight...
Rather than working all around with a sponge on a stick, I took the brute force method. By removing the 8 black screws at the second silicone join from the front, and then cutting the silicone with a razor, I was able to pry the glass completely away from the reflector assembly. If you do this it's best to do the prying over a bed or something, in case the glass drops.
Once the reflector assembly was out cleaning the glass and the reflectors was a piece of cake. I used isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) and it did a good job.
Getting to the back of the projector lens was more of a project, there were three spring clips that have to be popped. Not a big problem, but a bit of a trick. Then it's time to remove the screws holding the bulb bracket to the lens/reflector assembly. You have to watch out for the washers used to space the two parts, they are between the two parts, not under the screw heads. They are not used on all of the screws, so note which ones get them. Then you have to remove the horizontal cut off filter (be sure to misplace it) and clean the back of the low beam projector lens.
Re-assembly is the reverse. I used bathroom silicone to close up the cut I made. IMHO, the reason for the scum on the glass surfaces was the brown grease that was on the parking light bulb. I don't know why this stuff was there, but it was a mess. It's gone now! I replaced the OEM bulbs with PIAAs. I also upgraded the power feed to 14 gauge wire switched by relays. And I replaced the "parking" lamp with a specialty blue bulb and wired it to the low beam.
So, how does it work? The PIAAs and the blue bulb really give the lamp a blue color, so it's going to look very different going down the road. Hopefully cage drives will notice this a bit more, sometimes the yellow bike isn't enough. The bulbs are definitely getting more current, although I didn't increase the power of either. The light is more toward the blue end of the spectrum, it appears brighter. Having removed the cut off filter from the low beam makes a big difference in the light pattern too.
All in all I'd say it was worth it. I'll live with it a while and see if I want auxiliary lighting as well.”
Replacement Headlights
Ducati Designs now has a replacement headlight kit for Ducati St models – this twin headlight kit has received rave reviews from owners.
Headlight-Gizmo
This device which allows the bike to be started without the headlight on. The headlight is off when the bike is started, and stays off until the bike is put into gear. The headlight will then stay on until the ignition is switch off!
The Headlight-Gizmo will work with the Ducati Designs headlight replacement kit.
Sidestand Bypass
From 199 to 2003, all Ducatis were built with an electronic engine cutout switch connected to the sidestand. The idea (sensibly) is that if the motorcycle is in gear and the sidestand is down, then the engine should not run.
Unfortunately, this design doesn’t allow for the motorcycle to be started in neutral and run on the sidestand.
There are some low cost kits on the market that will allow starting and running of the motorcycle with the sidestand down, as long as the bike is in neutral. If the bike is put into gear with the engine running and sidestand down, then the engine will stop.
These kits will provide the convenience and still maintain the safety aspect.
Sidestand-Gizmo: Available from www.bike-gizmos.com
Evoluzione Bypass: Available from www.evoluzione.net
GPS Information & Experiences
A file that contains POI info for Ducati Dealers in Garmin format is here
Ducati GPS
Contributed by Robert Mohns
The “Ducati Performance Satellite Navigation System” is a Garmin StreetPilot III, with a kit including mounting brackets for Ducati ST, Monster and Multistrada, a 128 MB memory card, and the locations of all Ducati dealers worldwide pre-programmed. The Ducati GPS features a color screen, provides turn-by-turn directions, voice instructions via a headphone set, and a kit for automobile use. (The GPS also features the Ducati Performance logo screened onto its front.)
The Ducati GPS kit has been discontinued (as of January 2005). Some units were available at a substantial discount through a North American dealer that bought Ducati North America’s remaining inventory (link?). As of February 2005 they are believed to be generally unavailable.
Priced at $1600 at a time when the Garmin SPIII it is based on had become available for less than $1000, Ducati may have misestimated its customers’ willingness to pay extra for the Ducati Performance logo and a mounting bracket.
See www.ducati.com for more information
Garmin StreetPilot GPS Colormap
From: Charles McCullough
“I use a Garmin StreetPilotGPS ColorMap. W/data cartridges and MetroGuide USA maps. Wouldn't leave home for a weekend on the bike (or car for that matter) w/o it
Get great deals on GPS equipment here:
http://www.advancedgps.com/
Then go here and get a mount for about any GPS unit made to put on your ST2/ST4/etc., etc.,
http://www.cycoactive.com/gps/default.htm
If they ain't got it, you don't need it.
And then go here to get all the good stuff to wire it up to the bike...."
http://www.jastek7.com/
Garmin eMap, Garmin GPS V
From: Warren Egger
“I'm definitely a GPS convert. I had the Emap mounted on my GS for about a year, via a custom mount by Alex Ortner - a jewel whittled out of aluminum in just a couple of hours - beautiful. The Emap was a great tool for getting around the country and getting through unfamiliar cities. After seeing Arch's Garman GPS V in action, I had to get one. It's compact, portable, and has built-in auto routing. Tell it where you want to go and it will plot a route using it's base map or the detail maps that you download into it. It will turn you on to a whole new world of back roads if you get the Mapsource Metroguide map disks.”
Garmin 2610/2620, Garmin 276
From: Archie R
“I'm not a fan of the 2610's touch screen. Nope. Gimme the tactile feedback of Garmin's familiar buttons, especially important with gloves on. Also, the 2610 lacks battery power and when we're out in the sticks it's sometimes nice to work on routing & such over lunch. The 276 charges through its power cable on the bike and runs off the battery pack when removed.
We've been using GPS since the original GPS III hit the streets and I've had various different Garmins between then and now. The 276 is simply a leap ahead and, IMHO, worth every penny.
Top service...
http://www.gpsdiscount.com”
Garmin GPSmap 276C
From: Mike Mullen
“The GPS276C is a nice unit for motorcycle use because it has an excellent screen, customizable display and many useful features."
http://home.comcast.net/~mmullen38/GPSMAP276C.html
Miscellaneous
Sport Touring Comfort Kit
During 2001, Ducati made available a “Comfort Kit” for the ST range of bikes. Pictures appeared on the Ducati Website, and caused some interest, mainly because of the more aggressive look it gave to the bike.
Justin gives us the gossip:
“I've just spoken to my local dealer, so here's the drum.
It's a kit called a 'Comfort kit', which includes Fairing, clear screen, bar raisers, and headlight splitter. Parts are NOT available separately.
It only comes in Red, Silver and unpainted. Why they chose to advertise with a yellow photo - who knows! (bring on the comments about Yellow being more aerodynamic etc etc)
Price:
Painted - AUS$747 - roughly US$382 - UK 265
Unpainted - AUS$638 - roughly US$325 - UK 226
Availability - well, it is Ducati - dealer reports that it could be weeks. “
Categories: FAQ | ST2 | ST3 | ST4 | How-To | Modifications
